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   SOUTHEAST LOUISIANA TITLE & LAND, LLC

What type of loan is right for you?
What kind of interest rate is best?
A 30yr loan or a 15yr loan?
Should I shop around for the best deal?
Should I get a Lock-In?

Typical Mortgage Closing.
Our Processing Procedures.
What will happen at "closing"?
What closing cost should I expect to pay?
How much money can I expect to spend in "closing costs"?
Typical closing cost schedules.

The need for Title Insurance.
70 Something ways to lose your property!

What type of loan is right for you?  

Whether you are purchasing a home, refinancing your existing home loan for a lower interest rate, or consolidating your bills, mortgage-secured loans come in six basic types:

bulletVA (qualified military veterans) guaranteed loans - One of the most popular loan types used locally, due to our many military personnel, both active and retired, in the area, VA loans feature 100% financing with no money down. VA loans carry a Funding Fee charge of up to 3% of the loan amount in addition to all other closing costs. This fee can be added to the loan amount, taking the loan up to 103% of the purchase price. The maximum loan limit is typically $144,000.00 to $203,000.00 (depending on certain factors), there is no pre-payment penalty, and the monthly payment will include taxes & insurance.
bulletFHA (HUD) guaranteed loans. Good for 1st time homeowners, it requires only a 2.5% down-payment in addition to all other closing costs, and a large up-front charge, which like the VA funding fee, can be financed into the loan amount. Also, a small monthly loan guaranty charge is paid with the monthly payment. The loan limit is a maximum $121,296.00, with no pre-payment penalty, and a monthly payment including taxes & insurance.
bulletCONVENTIONAL (private mortgage insurance or PMI) guaranteed loans. Requires a minimum 5% downpayment, in addition to the normal closing costs. The loan guaranty charge is usually a small monthly charge paid with the monthly payment. However, with a 20% or more downpayment, there is no guaranty charge, making the Conventional loan one of the most attractive and cost effective loan options. It assures "instant" equity in the property (purchase price minus loan balance), and means a lower monthly payment, and lower interest expense over the life of the loan. The loan limit is $252,700.00, with no pre-payment penalty, and a monthly payment including taxes & insurance.
bulletNON-CONVENTIONAL loans. These loans are generally in-house bank loans (with greatly lowered closing costs, but higher down-payment requirements), and are available from your local bank. It helps here to have a good banking relationship. These loans are also sometimes called "bridge" loans, because they are usually made for short, temporary terms (such as 5-15 years), and may carry a balloon payment (loan balance must paid off by a certain date, usually 3 years). There is the loan limit on amount, and typically no pre-payment penalty, but the monthly payment does not normally include taxes & insurance.
bulletNON-CONFORMING loans. When you can’t qualify for or obtain any of the above (VA, FHA, CONV, IN-HOUSE), you can still get a mortgage loan, albeit a non-conforming type. These loans are for those people who don’t fit into the "cookie-cutter" mold required to qualify for the more conventional loan types. They generally come with higher closing costs, higher interest rates, and higher down-payment requirements. While there is no practical limit on the amount of loan, there is often a pre-payment penalty if paid off during the first five years. Interest rates generally range from 9% to 14%, and the monthly payment does not normally include taxes & insurance.
bulletCONSTRUCTION loans. This is a special, short term (usually 6 months) loan specifically for the construction of a new home. The interest rate is usually 1% higher than conventional rates, and is paid off with a VA, FHA, or CONV long-term loan when the house is completed. The loan money is loaned out in stages (called "draws") as the construction progresses. Special rules apply to construction of a new home on undeveloped property, so careful planning is a must. Normally, the loan is for only 80% of the value of the property (as estimated by an appraiser), so the owner must have the land already paid for or have some additional funds to cover the difference. Also, you must be pre-approved for your permanent (long-term) loan before you can get a construction loan, because there must be a guaranteed source of funds to pay-off the construction loan. There is no pre-payment penalty, and monthly payments normally consist of interest only.

What kind of interest rate is best?  

There are two types of interest rates: fixed rate and variable (or adjustable) rate.

bulletFIXED RATE The interest rate and monthly payment (not including taxes and insurance) does not change over the life of the loan. This is the most common type of long term (15-30 years) loan.
bulletADJUSTABLE RATE (ARM) The interest rate and monthly payment (not including taxes and insurance) are subject to change many times (usually each year) over the life of the loan. The advantage is that the starting interest rate is lower, typically 1-2% lower, than a fixed rate loan, and hence the monthly payment is lower. The disadvantage is that the rate can surpass a fixed rate loan in just a couple of years, and this means an increase in the monthly payment accordingly. There is usually a "cap" or ceiling on the maximum rate that can be charged, normally 6% over the initial interest rate. So if an adjustable rate loan starts at an attractive 6.75%, it can quickly go to 12.75% in just three years, several points higher than an 8% fixed rate loan. Many ARM loans provide for a conversion to a fixed-rate loan at some time in the future, based on a formula. However, you will not know what that formula will yield as a fixed rate at the time of the conversion. You can only hope that the rate will be reasonable at that time.

A 30-year loan or a 15-year loan?  

A 30-year loan will result in the lowest monthly payment, but with a very heavy price tag. Over the life of the loan, most of your monthly payment is applied to the interest, so very little of your payment goes toward paying off the debt. Even after ten years, only a small amount of the loan balance has been paid off, and you will have built almost no equity into the home. The only real advantage is that the monthly payment is low.

A 15-year loan, however, results in a marginally higher (typically only $100-150 higher) monthly payment, but over the life of the loan far more of the monthly payment goes toward payment of the debt. From the very beginning, a large amount of the monthly payment goes toward the principal balance, and that is just like putting money in the bank. You will get it all back when you sell the house. In a way, it is like a savings account in your house.

The LOAN CALCULATOR will give you an approximation of the monthly payment you can expect on a fixed rate 30-year vs. 15-year loan, with the resulting interest savings.

Should I "shop-around" for the best deal?  

Shopping for the "best" overall loan is not nearly as easy as it sounds. While it seems quite easy to call several lenders and compare their interest rate offerings, the interest rate is not the only factor that must be considered.  When comparing lenders and their offerings, you must be comparing "apples to apples" (technically speaking, comparing the "APR" to the "APR" of the various lenders). This means getting from each lender all of the costs of the loan, including the cost of the origination fee (some charge less), the discount points (if any), the appraisal, the credit report fee, the loan guaranty fees (VA, FHA or PMI), the "miscellaneous" fees (such as underwriting, tax service, delivery, broker fees, document prep., etc.), whether a new survey is required, termite inspection, insurance (homeowners, flood & windpool) & tax escrow requirements, pre-paid interest, etc. Many lenders vary from as low as $125.00 in the miscellaneous fees to $500.00 or more. Many out-of-state lenders (non-local) inflate many of these fees, so that, in the long run, what might seem like an attractive interest rate is more than made up in higher fees. Your best bet is to select a local lender with a good reputation, that provides quality service, and avoid one that makes "lowball" interest rate offerings. The actual APR (not just the interest rate) takes all of these fees into account, and the lender with the lowest APR is usually the best bargain.

Also be wary of the "bait & switch" routine that some unscrupulous lenders practice. This involves advertising or soliciting an interest rate or APR that is substantially less than normal rates, getting you in the door, and then "switching" you to a much higher rate at the time of closing. They know that at closing, you are under a great deal of pressure to "go through with the deal", and you are in a "take it or leave it" situation. They also know that most people under those circumstances end up taking it. They then "sell" the loan to an institutional loan purchaser (called the "investor") at a high premium, thereby making even more money off the deal.

One way to avoid this trap is to be wary of an interest rate offer that is much lower than other lender’s offerings. Also, make sure you get a written loan commitment which includes a "lock-in" provision that locks-in the interest rate quote for a specified period of time, at least 45 days. The length of time for this lock-in is very important since it typically takes 4-6 weeks for a normal loan to be processed and finally close. The unscrupulous lender will offer a relatively short (30 days or less) lock-in, or "drag their feet" in the loan approval process, and not have to honor their written "lock-in" after it expires.

These are some of the reasons why quality and good reputation are far more important than shopping for the "best deal". You can’t go wrong with a good, quality lender. The ones to avoid are usually the ones who make "the deal" sound too good to be true. Remember the old maxim "Buyer Beware!".

Should I get a "lock-in"?  

A "lock-in" is a written promise by your lender that the loan terms (rate, costs, etc.) will not change due to market conditions for a limited period of time. In almost all cases, if you are reasonably satisfied with the interest rate and terms your lender is offering you, get those terms locked-in, in writing, at the time of your loan application, for at least 45 days or longer. Many people make the mistake of "riding" the interest rate roller-coaster after applying for the loan hoping for a lower rate near the time of closing. Since the pressures for interest rates to go up are always much stronger than for them to come down, rates very seldom come down, and then, not for very long at all. Trying to time this is pure gambling at best; foolish (and expensive) at worst.

The purpose of a rate lock-in is to protect you from the pressures for rates and costs to increase. Since interest rates are very sensitive to all types of economic news, any piece of "bad" news causes an instant rise in interest rate costs. Since Wall Street seems to thrive on "bad" news, it is always just around the corner, usually about the time for your loan to close. Our advice: get a lock-in, in writing, for at least 45 days, and don’t worry about the interest rates; you’ve locked-in a good deal.

The Typical Mortgage Closing  

Many buyers are nervous going into a real estate closing simply because they do not know what to expect.  At Southeast Louisiana Title (SELA Title), we want you to feel comfortable about this process.  In an effort to do that, we have put together this booklet to help you better understand our processes.  Since types of closings and lenders vary somewhat, this process too may vary.  The following is intended to merely give you a brief idea of what to expect.

Documents for the Buyer/Borrower:

1 .    Promissory note - indicates the amount of the mortgage loan, interest rate, term of loan, and amount of monthly payment. (Note: payments usually begin on the first day of the second month after closing).

2 .   The Mortgage - the legal document to be recorded at the courthouse that establishes a lien against the property and secures the promissory note.

3 .   Truth-In-Lending Disclosure - discloses the “Annual Percentage Rate” (“APR”) of the mortgage loan over the term of the loan.  The APR takes into account not only the interest rate, but also the points, broker fees and certain other fees that you have to pay.

4 .   Loan Application - shows all personal & financial information that the borrower provides to the lender. Signing it verifies you acknowledge this information reported to the lender is correct.

5.    Payment Letter - tells the buyer the breakdown of the monthly payment to be made; the amount of the first payment; when it is due; and where it is to be sent. This breakdown shows the monthly amount of principal and interest plus the escrow amount for homeowners insurance, taxes, and Private Mortgage Insurance. PMI protects the lender against the buyers default when there is less then 20% owners equity in the home.

6 .   Name Affidavit - lists the variations of a person's name and states that they are the same person.

7 .   Property Survey - shows the boundaries of the property and marks the location of the house and other improvements, such as, the subdivision it is in.

8 .   Flood Acknowledgment - indicates if the property is located in a flood zone, if such were indicated by the flood elevation done by the surveyor.

9 .   Termite Inspection Certificate - evidences that a licensed pest control inspector has visited the property and certifies that the property is free of active infestation from wood destroying insects.

10 .  Depending on the type of mortgage, one of the following forms is used:

a .   For Conventional Financing, a private mortgage insurance application from (sometimes referred to as Premium Authorization Form);

b .   For an FHA insured loan, a form known as the Certificate of Reasonable Value which must be signed by borrower at the time of closing;

c .   For VA insured financing, a form which must be executed by the Veteran and spouse at the time of closing.

11.  Escrow Settlement Agreement - reflects all of the items being set up in an “escrow account” such as the hazard insurance premium, flood insurance premium, private mortgage insurance premium and real estate taxes, if any.

 

Documents for the Seller:

Inchoate Lien Affidavit - declares that for a period of 90 days prior to closing the seller has not had any work done on his property that would give rise to a mechanic's lien and also that no parties, other than the seller, is entitled to possess the property.

Documents for Both the Buyer and the Seller:


1 . Act of Sale - the instrument by which the ownership of the property is transferred from the sellers' names into the buyers' names.  It is signed and executed before the notary public and two witnesses, the original is recorded at the courthouse where it remains forever. In Louisiana, this instrument contains a declaration of the full and complete marital status of the parties, a legal description of the real estate being transferred and the sale price. (It may also contain an "as is" rider by which the buyer releases the seller from any liability attributable to defects in the construction, flooding, wiring, plumbing, roofing, etc.)

2 .   HUD Settlement Statement - specifies all costs and expenses of the transaction, the purchase price, the amount of the loan,  the source of all funds used by the buyer/borrower,  and the net proceeds due to the seller, after deducting:

( a )  The expenses of sale (including the real estate commission, points being paid for borrower, seller's closings costs, etc.);

( b )  The payoff of the seller's outstanding mortgage

( c )  Any tax pro-rations

( d )  The cost of home owners warranty (if seller has agreed to furnish one)

( e )  The cost of furnishing a termite certificate.

 The HUD Settlement Statement must reflect all details of the transaction accurately and completely. It must be absolutely exact as to where the funds come from (i.e., lender, buyer, employer, etc., as well as who receives the proceeds).

 Our Processing Procedures   

1 .   Set Up File upon receiving the purchase agreement.

2 .   Prepare an application for Title Insurance.

3 .   Assign a notarial secretary to coordinate the closing.

4 .   Gather the following information concerning the transaction:

a .      Copy of the titles containing the Legal Description of the property.

b .   Full legal names of the purchasers and the sellers along with marital status and any divorce information.

c .      New Mortgage Lender and Loan Officer.

d .      Existing Mortgage Lender and Loan Number.

5 . Begin the Abstract and Examination process.  (The Clerk of Court compiles all public records that affect real property. Their office is where the actual research and examination of the title property occurs.)

6 . Order tax researches to determine if taxes are current or what taxes are owed.  DELINQUENT TAXES create a LIEN on REAL PROPERTY.

7 .  Perform Title Search by examining the current owners instrument of acquisition. Then the chain of title is formed by compiling all transfers on this property prior to the present owner for a minimum of 50 years back. Instruments which will be found in these records are:

a .      Cash Sales

b .      Mortgages

c .      Release of Mortgages

d .      Credit Sales

e .      Assignments

f .      Servitudes

g .      Restrictions

h .      Counter Letters

8 .   Check owners, past owners and the purchasers of the property are checked in the Mortgage and Conveyance Index to determine if any of the following have been filed of record, and could affect the title to the property:

a .      Judgments or Lis Pendens

b .      Federal Tax Liens

c .      Divorces or Legal Separations

d .      Wills

e .      Powers of Attorney

f .      Consent of Spouse Agreements

g .      Marriage Contracts

h .      Successions

9 .   Obtain copies of all documents affecting the title to the property.

10 .  Title Examination - All title examinations are done by attorneys.   A Title Examiner receives the file containing copies of all the documents affecting the property.  It is the Title Examiner's responsibility to review and evaluate these documents to determine the legal owner and the status of the title, as well as any requirements necessary to perfect the title.

11 .  Write a Title Report report of the Title Examiner's evaluation of the title.

12 .  Forward the file to the Notarial Secretary to prepare the Final Closing Documents. The Notarial Secretary implements the buyer, seller, and lender's instructions, prepares the closing papers and disburses all funds according to everyone's instructions. The transaction will not close until all instructions or requirements are met.

What will happen at "closing"?    

All closings will be handled by an insured Notary Public in the following manner:

1.  HUD1 will be reviewed, explained and signed. 
2.  The Seller and Purchaser will sign an Act of Cash Sale transferring the property for cash.
3. 
The purchaser will sign the Truth- in-Lending after explanation.
4.  The Purchaser will then sign a mortgage and note to the lender.
5.  Various affidavits required by the lender will be signed.

6. Checks will be received from the Purchaser and disbursed to the Seller and Realtors.

After the documents are signed, is the transaction "closed"? 

No, a function called Banking must be performed.

1. The notarial secretary will package the papers for recording at the Courthouse. Simultaneously, she will forward a package with copies of signed documents to the Lender for inspection.

2. Upon inspection and approval, the Lender will send the loan check to SELA Title in exchange for the Mortgagee's Title Policy.

3. After recording, the new owners will then receive their papers with the instructions on how to file their homestead exemption. Their Owner's Title Policy if ordered will be sent at this time.

4. At this point, the file has been "BANKED" and the transaction is "CLOSED".

 What closing costs should I expect to pay?  

There are many out-of-pocket expenses inherent to all real estate sales and purchases. As a general rule, cash sales not involving loan financing are generally the least costly; loan financing through an in-house bank loan have middle-of-the-road overall costs; long-term mortgage loans have higher associated costs.  All purchases share similar costs, such as insurance, taxes, settlement fees, title insurance, survey, etc.

There are certain costs the seller of the property normally pays, such as:

        ·         Sales commission
·       
  Loan & lien payoff(s)
·        
Property taxes pro-rated to closing date
·        
Termite inspection fee (& treatment, if necessary)
·        
Some financing costs in the case of VA loan to buyer
·        
Some recording fees
        -City of New Orleans document transfer tax

There are certain costs the buyer of the property normally pays, such as:

        ·         All costs of financing (origination fee, points, credit report, misc. fees, pre-paid interest, loan guaranty fees)
·        
Insurance (homeowners & flood)
·        
Tax & insurance escrow
·        
Owner’s Title Insurance
·        
Some recording fees

There are certain costs that can be paid by either seller or buyer (and hence must be negotiated), such as:

        ·         Appraisal
·        
Attorney’s and Settlement Agent’s (that’s us!) closing fees. 
·        
Lender Title Insurance
·        
Homebuyer’s warranty

How much money can I expect to spend in closing costs?  

Typical "closing costs" for buyer and seller will run several thousand dollars. Why so much? Because "closing costs" is all of the money you or your seller will have to spend to get your loan processed, closed and recorded. This can represent the fees of several companies not just one. Typical closing costs are:

        ·         Rea Estate agent commission (typically 6% of the first $100,000 of the purchase price and 4% of the rest.
·         Loan Origination Fee (typically 0-4%% of the loan amount)
·        
Discount Points (typically 0-2%, depending on market conditions)
·        
Appraisal Fee (approx. $300-$500)
·        
Credit Report (approx. 0-$50)
·        
Lender Inspection Fee (approx. $75)
·        
Miscellaneous Fees (average $125-500)
·        
Pre-paid Interest (up to 30 days, from $0-1000 or more)
·        
Loan Guaranty Charges (VA Funding, FHA-MIP, PMI ins.)
·        
Broker Fee (non-conforming loans, up to 0-6% of loan amount)
·        
Homeowners Insurance ($400-1200 depending  on the condition of House)
·        
Flood Insurance (if required, $150-500)
·        
Windstorm Insurance (if required, $500-1000 or more)
·        
Tax & Insurance Escrow (usually  months of reserves)
·        
Settlement or Closing Fees (here we are! $400-650)
·        
Title Insurance (based on loan amount, $300-$1000 depending on loan amount)
·        
Recording Fees ($25-50)
·        
Overnight Delivery Fees ($25-75)
·        
Notary Fee ($6)
·        
Survey (if required, typically $200, as high as $400 or more)
·        
Termite Inspection Certificate ($50)

All of the above costs can easily exceed $3,000-$4,000, and they do not vary much from loan to loan, lender to lender, and it doesn’t matter if the loan is a VA, FHA or CONV type. These costs are pretty much built-in to the mortgage loan industry, regardless of loan type.

You may also incur additional costs for the pro-rated Seller’s property taxes, appraiser required repairs, termite treatment & repairs (if required), loan payoffs, back taxes, other liens, debts, etc., all of which are charges to the Seller.  It is easy to see, then, that the money that will be spent (whether by the buyer/borrower or seller) for the ultimate closing is going to be substantial. So it is best to know these costs, prepare for them, and accept them for what they are - the costs of buying or borrowing money on a home.

Typical closing cost schedules:  

TYPICAL CLOSING COST ON A $100,000 SALE
($95,000/8% CONVENTIONAL 30-year LOAN)

</

ITEM

BUYER

SELLER

Sales Commission(6%)

 

6,000.00

*Loan Origination Fee(1%)

950.00

 

Discount Points

.00